Mole in the Mountains

A gastronomic adventure in Xalapa, Mexico.

it matches). It points in a general direction; hopefully others will fill in the blanks. First of all I remembered a fabulous recipe Patricia Quintana published in Food Arts (May 2005 I think) for chiles rellenos in the style of...

in small neighboring towns like Perote, Cuacuazintla, Naolinco. (By the same token, I found stunning Andalucian cooking in Cadiz quite easily on a trip earlier this year, while Seville was generally disappointing.) Similarly,...

-hair-like candied chilacayote)-but yeah, it’s there-and it’s stupendous. Walk down 6 Oriente (the century-old sweets street) in Puebla to start. Then consider heading to Dona Josefina in Naolinco for marvellous things...

) is the point here and outweighs the fact that there’s really better nieve to be had-in Coatepec or in Naolinco or even Coacoazintla. The same is true as well of every other type of street food there is out there in this...

other wonderful rides on this trip alone: the cloudscapes straight out of a Chinese ink painting on the ride up to Cuetzalan, or the pastoral delights of the rolling foothills around Naolinco. The vegetation is extremely dense...